K R A M E R  G A R F I A S

The project "Vingt-Deux et pas mille" deals with the history of the Burgundian "Millefleur" tapestries. In the 15th century, tapestries were a precious medium to represent the power of a dynasty. They reflected the power and wealth of the owner and were an indispensable furnishing in every leading ruling house. In particular, the Burgundian House of Valois was aware of the advantages and importance of the textile medium. Duke Phillip the Good owned over 100 tapestry sets by himself.

The depictions of the tapestries often drew on motifs and narratives from Greek mythology, courtly hunting scenes, won battles, and Bible episodes. But from 1466 onwards, a new tapestry genre appeared: "la tapisserie de verdure" later known as "Millefleur."

Unlike the overloaded tapestries known at the time, the "verdure" offers a place of stillness. It can convey a quiet and subtle message to the viewer and train his eye for the subtle differences of the "thousand flowers" depicted on it.  A "verdure" often shows a flowering summer meadow with realistic botanical depictions that help to identify each flower.The artist developed "Vingt-Deux et pas mille" in collaboration with the famous silk weaving mill Tessitura Taborelli in Como/Italy. The jacquard weave artwork takes up the history of the Burgundian "Mille Fleurs" and transfers it to the present day.

In contrast to the "Thousand Flowers" tapestries, "Vingt-Deux et pas mille" shows only one type of flower: the tulip. In the Middle Ages, people were aware of the significance of many flowers and plants, and most people knew the secret language of flowers. Nowadays, this knowledge from the Middle Ages is lost, and only fragments of some meanings have survived into our time. This situation crystallized the decision to develop a "mille fleur" only with tulips, a well-known flower in western civilizations.

Despite this, many of us don't receive its secret message because a world focused on technology offers its societies only a little space to explore nature intensively. The Jacquard piece moves between the levels of digital realization and the reconnection of humans with nature. The synthetic fibers of the artwork break with the tradition of the woolen "Millefleur."

The artist, who specializes in jacquard fabrics, takes the work of technical development and construction entirely into her own hands. This approach allows the artist to manipulate the motifs on the material and to create unique experimental surfaces that bring a new splendor into the subject of textiles. 

"Vingt-deux et pas mille" (2021) detail photo